Cat Care 101

BASIC PHILOSOPHY

Much like you, your pet needs to be recognized and understood. And, like you, he or she experiences a wide range of emotions and physical feelings, such as affection, stress, contentment, pain, pleasure, excitement and irritation. Companion animals in particular are remarkably similar to us in their ability to form bonds, feel loss, happiness, fear and joy.

A GOOD HOME treats a pet with love and respect

We believe that a GOOD HOME recognizes the family pet as a conscious being who perceives and feels (is sentient), and possesses unique characteristics that make him or her an individual. Pets can be intelligent, funny, sweet, demanding, confident, shy, playful and inquisitive—just like humans! 

Most often it’s not too difficult to know what your pet wants or needs, but there will be times when you might not fully understand what is happening with them. In those instances, it’s very important to be attuned to signals they may give you (vocalizing and/or physical or behavioral changes) and to make time to connect and communicate with them.

One of your cat’s primary needs is that they need YOU!

Please read through the basic care information below. It is only intended as a broad overview, but we hope it may offer some new information, address any possible misconceptions or simply reinforce what you already know. 

SHOPPING LIST

  • Bowls for food and water

  • The highest quality wet and/or dry food that is affordable

  • Litter box and scooper

  • Litter

  • A surface made specifically for scratching (a vertical scratcher wrapped in sisal, a horizontal cardboard scratcher, a sisal mat, etc.)

  • A carrier sized appropriately for your cat

  • Grooming tools (nail clippers, brush and/or comb)

  • Bedding

  • Toys and treats

Most cats like to be invited to play. Catnip and a wand toy make great icebreakers!

PLANNING FOR YOUR NEW PET

Food and water location
Please note that food should not be placed near the litter box. You might also consider getting a placemat because some cats can be messy eaters!

Litter box location
The ideal location for the litter box is where it’s easily accessible for the cat, but offers some privacy. Avoid a high traffic area such as a hallway or entryway. Closets tend not to be ideal as they are too confining, and closet doors can too easily be closed making the box inaccessible.

Litter box size
Make sure to choose a box that fits the cat and is not dictated by the space where the box will live. It is recommended that a litter box be at least one and a half times the length of the cat. For older kittens and adult cats, a high-sided box can reduce litter tracking.

Litter box style
Some cats prefer an open box. Others prefer one with a hood or lid. Robotic, top entry litter boxes or boxes with a door often require training and can always be transitioned to at a later time so, at least initially in the interest of avoiding accidents, we recommend starting out with a large, open box.

Litter type
There are many types of litter to choose from: paper, pellets, sand, granules, crystals, etc. Whatever type you select, we recommend using a litter that is unscented, soft on cats’ paws and a texture they will enjoy digging in.

Bedding
Cats often like to have their own special napping spot, but they will make themselves comfortable on the couch or on your bed (if they are permitted in the bedroom). Many cats often enjoy a covered bed such as a nest or cubby. A simple cardboard box lined with a soft towel or blanket is often a big winner with cats.

Perching
Many cats like to climb and be up high. Offering your cat a high perch can also be very calming for them. There are many commercial perches to choose from, but the top of a bookshelf or cabinet can work wonderfully as well.

Playtime!
The ASPCA recommends providing your cat with at least 15 minutes of playtime and attention every day. Cats are hunters who need enrichment and stimulation, otherwise they may become bored and destructive. Most cats love to chase and “hunt” small objects. Toys don’t have to be expensive—toy mice, balls, springs or rattlers work great. Wand toys and kickers can be great too, depending on your cat’s play style and personality. And don’t forget to try catnip! Not all cats go for it, but many do. Silvervine is another option.

Scratchers
Stretching and nail-sharpening is an innate part of being a cat and it is almost always necessary to provide your cat with a scratching post or board. Your cat will let you know if they prefer a vertical or horizontal scratcher. Scratchers don't have to break the bank. Start small with a horizontal cardboard scratcher. If your cat enjoys that then you might consider adding a vertical style too. Just make sure it’s tall and sturdy enough for the cat to really grab on and stretch!

Make a plan for where your cat will eat, sleep and use the litter box

COST OF CARE FOR ONE CAT

Daily average cost: $5 for good quality food (wet and dry) and litter
Weekly average cost: $35 to upwards of $40, if toys and treats are included
Monthly average cost: $150 to upwards of $170, if toys and treats are included
Annual minimum cost: $1800 to over $2000, if toys, treats and basic veterinary care are included

Cost of Veterinary Care
A basic examination at a private veterinarian can average $75-$125, depending on the office and its location. In order to understand your cat’s health, tests (blood work, fecal or other) may be recommended and the cost of which can range from $40-$200 per test.

Cost of Emergency Care
Your pet may require emergency care during the course of their lifetime. While infrequent, some reasons for a visit to the ER include injury, ingesting a poisonous substance/foreign object or treatment for an undetected illness that becomes acute.

The cost of these visits varies widely depending on the illness, recommended treatment and your location. A basic emergency visit can cost $130-$400. An ultrasound can range in cost from $200-$600. X-rays can range from $200 to $600 or more. In depth, emergency blood work can cost $200-$600. 

Veterinary care is important & necessary

VETERINARY CARE

Like you, pets can become ill and, like you, they can suffer from many of the same ailments that you do, such as cold viruses, bacterial infections requiring antibiotic treatment, thyroid disease, tooth decay, diabetes, cancer and, as they age, arthritis and even senility. They can have accidents that may require a bandage, surgery and/or stitches.

A visit to your veterinarian will include an exam and, especially for ailing or older cats, blood work, to check basic values. Sometimes a fecal analysis will be recommended.

Core vaccinations

  • The FVRCP (Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis Calicivirus and Panleukopenia) vaccination can be administered as young as 6 weeks. Veterinary protocol is to vaccinate kittens every 3-4 weeks, until 16 weeks. A booster is ideally administered at one year and then every three years.

  • Rabies vaccinations should be administered at 4 months of age and a booster should be given within one year and every one to three years, depending on the type of vaccine used.

It is important to have a go-to veterinarian who is acquainted with your pet’s health and can help you manage any issues should the arise

FOOD & WATER

  • Cats must have access to fresh drinking water at all times.

  • Cats are “obligate carnivores” which means they MUST consume meat in order to survive. Cats cannot subsist on an exclusively vegan diet.

  • Cats need to eat a diet that is specific to their species. They should not be fed human food.

  • Cats naturally prefer smaller, more frequent meals, so ideally they would be fed at least twice a day, approximately 12 hours apart. Feed more frequently if possible!

  • We strongly recommend measuring your cats’ food and not allowing them to nosh “buffet style” (free feed). Consult product packaging for the correct amount to feed your cat based on their age and weight.

  • Food, wet or dry, should be of the highest quality that is affordable.

  • Food and water bowls should be washed daily.

  • Bowls should be sized appropriately for kitty to eat and drink from comfortably. Stainless steel or ceramic bowls are best as plastic is known to cause chin irritation or acne in some cats.

Cats are “obligate carnivores” which means they MUST consume meat in order to survive

THE LITTER BOX: A DEEP DIVE

A litter box should be large enough for your cat to fit inside comfortably and be able to turn around. The recommended size is one and half times the length of the cat. A hood or lid should not touch the cat’s back. 

Specialty litter boxes, such as top entry or “robotic” types, usually require training. Additionally, significant and sudden changes to daily habits can be stressful for any cat, but are especially so for one that is entering a new home. Unless you know the type of litter box your cat was using in their prior home, to begin with, it is strongly recommended to get a basic, open box and then gradually transition to a preferred type.

Scoop frequently to keep the box free of waste. At a minimum a litter box should be cleaned once daily, more often if the household has additional cats. This will reduce odors as well as significantly reduce the possibility of the cat eliminating outside of the box. Washing the litter box itself on a regular basis—and not just removing the waste—is also important in terms of your cat’s health, hygiene and their relationship to the litter box, not to mention it also reduces unpleasant odors in the home.

If you are adopting two cats, two litter boxes are recommended. However, if you opt for one box between two cats be absolutely sure it is large enough for both cats and that it is kept very clean. That means scooping multiple times a day. Many litter box issues are caused by a dirty box. One box does increase the chance of accidents, however many households successfully have two cats and one box, just plan on scooping and cleaning frequently.

Make sure that the litter box is large enough for your cat to be able to turn around comfortably inside of it

GROOMING

Most cats enjoy being brushed or combed. Some may not, of course, or may find it overly stimulating, so in those instances look for the grooming approach that kitty likes best. Consider a soft or slicker style brush, a comb or grooming “mitt”.

Some cats’ coats are prone to developing a thick undercoat or mats which can be very uncomfortable and even painful. In this instance, brush regularly with a tool made specifically for this type of coat, which will maintain a healthy coat and a happy disposition.

Cats do an excellent job of bathing themselves and rarely need to be bathed in water. In lieu of a bath, your cat’s coat can be freshened with a lightly moistened paper towel or cat-specific commercial pet wipe.

For most cats, a bath should be a last resort

PARASITES

Fleas are a common problem that can be a source of discomfort and sometimes very serious irritation to your cat. They can cause intestinal Tapeworms and, for more sensitive cats, dermatitis (itchy skin, hot spots, thinning fur). In some instances, cats can even be allergic to fleas.

It is possible to manage fleas effectively. If you suspect fleas are in your household, be sure to clean pet bedding frequently (vacuum, wash and dry) and treat cats regularly with a topical flea medication such as Frontline® or Revolution® (available through your veterinarian). However, in cases where your cat is particularly sensitive you may want to “bomb” the household in order to get rid of the infestation.

Ways to combat fleas:

  • Monthly topical drops, such as Revolution® or Frontline®.

  • Capstar® is an over-the-counter pill that kills all fleas within 15 minutes of ingestion and lasts for 24 hours. This is useful if the cat is experiencing obvious discomfort due to flea infestation.

  • A flea comb.

  • A flea collar.

  • A bath is a last resort for most cats, but recommended for cats or kittens suffering from a serious infestation of fleas. Dawn dishwashing liquid is a go-to for many rescues as it kills fleas and removes flea dirt.

Fleas can cause your pet a lot of discomfort!

COMMON HOUSEHOLD HAZARDS

The following chemicals, medications and drugs must be contained safely away from pets:

  • Any and all medication intended for human consumption (unless otherwise directed by your veterinarian).

  • Any and all recreational drugs such as marijuana.

  • Common household cleaning solutions such as bleach, ammonia and hydrogen peroxide.

  • Common household chemicals and solvents such as antifreeze, turpentine and rubbing alcohol.

Essential oils should NEVER be applied directly to your cat’s coat as some are poisonous and can be ingested while grooming

Additionally...

  • The smoke from incense or cigarettes can create serious respiratory problems (asthma, pneumonia, etc) for your pets.

  • Essential oil diffusers should not be placed in the same room where pets spend most of their time as some oils are poisonous to them, can settle on their fur and be ingested while grooming.

  • Your pet may find the aroma produced by essential oils, incense or smudging unpleasant, so make sure they have a place to go where the smell is not overpowering.

Common household plants that are poisonous to cats and their effects:

  • Amaryllis: vomiting and diarrhea

  • Azalea: lack of coordination, trembling, collapse

  • Cactus: punctures skin, infection

  • Caladium: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, shaking head, difficulty breathing

  • Creeping Charlie: vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, cramps

  • Easter Lily: can cause kidney failure

  • Dieffenbachia: affects the central nervous system

  • Ivy: vomiting, diarrhea, excitable behavior

  • Mistletoe berries: vomiting, diarrhea, blistering in the mouth, difficulty breathing

  • Philodendron: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, shaking head, difficulty breathing

  • Poinsettia: see Mistletoe

Human food that is poisonous to cats:

  • Alcohol

  • Avocados

  • Chives

  • Chocolate

  • Coffee

  • Garlic

  • Grapes

  • Macadamia nuts

  • Onions and onion powder

  • Raisins

  • Salt

  • Tea leaves

  • Yeast dough

  • Xylitol (artificial sweetener)

Food that is safe for human consumption is NOT necessarily safe for cat consumption!

INDOOR VERSUS OUTDOOR

In some instances it is appropriate for a cat to remain outdoors, such as in the case of working or feral cats. However, allowing a house cat to free roam invites many dangers. Your house cat could encounter a territorial feral (untamed) cat who may initiate a fight in which your pet could become sick or injured. They run the risk of becoming stuck or trapped in an unfamiliar place. Friendly or particularly attractive cats may be taken.

FIV and FELV viruses are communicated via bite wounds and subject your cat long term health issues.

Window safety and “high rise syndrome”
The problem of cats falling from windows is so common that there is a term for it: high rise syndrome. Cats are notoriously curious and can easily escape from an open window, so it is IMPERATIVE that windows be equipped with screens that are intact and secure, particularly those on upper floors. Accidents and death from falls are EASILY PREVENTED by securing windows with screens!  

Please keep house cats where they belong: INDOORS!

DECLAWING

Declawing is not a “permanent nail trim”. It is major surgery that amputates the last bone of a cat’s claw or, in some cases, severs the tendons so that the cat can no longer use its claws. 

More is known now about declawing, such as that it can cause permanent nerve damage and pain or simply cause frustration to the extent that it creates behavoral issues for the cat as it is their natural tendency to stretch and sharpen their nails.

Unless it is performed for medical reasons, declawing is considered inhumane to the extent that some states have enacted anti-declawing legislation and in most European countries it is deemed inhumane. WE AGREE and fully expect that our adopters will find other means to address scratching behavior, such as regular nail trims, providing scratching posts, gentle training around which surfaces are acceptable to scratch, pheromone (Feliway®) therapy, vinyl nail caps, double-sided tape applied to furniture or other humane deterrents.

It is instinctive for a cat to stretch and sharpen their nails

DENTAL CARE: THE EIGHT WEEK PLAN*

*Eight weeks is the minimum, not the maximum!

Supplies:

  • Veterinary toothpaste in a flavor your cat likes. Human toothpaste is not safe for cats!

  • A soft, fingertip brush or veterinary toothbrush. A toothbrush is best for removing plaque, but if your cat will only tolerate a fingertip toothbrush, that’s okay!

Follow a toothbrushing session with a favorite treat

Weeks 1-2: Once a day, put a small amount of toothpaste for pets on your finger (or on your cat’s food bowl) and let him or her lick it off. This will get your cat used to the taste. If your cat doesn’t like toothpaste, you can substitute tuna, all-meat baby food or cat food gravy. But toothpaste is best!

Weeks 2-4: Once a day, slip your finger, covered with toothpaste (or a substitute), between your cat’s upper lip and upper teeth. Briefly rub the outer surface of the teeth. Afterward, offer praise by gently stroking your cat’s whiskers. This mimics the way a mother cat grooms her kittens and will help your cat associate tooth brushing with something pleasurable.

Weeks 4-6: Once a day, put a small amount of toothpaste (or a substitute) on a toothbrush and allow your cat to lick it off. This will acquaint your cat with the sight and feel of the toothbrush.

Weeks 6-8: Once a day, slip the toothbrush between your cat’s upper lip and teeth and gently rub where the teeth meet the gums. Focus on the canines (fangs) and teeth that are further back in the mouth. Don’t try to brush the inner surface (tongue side) of the teeth. Aim to brush 5-10 seconds on each side. As your cat becomes accustomed to this routine, brush the lower teeth as well.

Remember to RELAX and TAKE IT SLOW!

CAT BODY LANGUAGE